Finally in Cambodia! On the topic of world airports, the international terminal in Siem Reap is one of the loveliest. It provides a calming, relaxed venue after a brief flight from bustling Bangkok. Lots of greenery, cool marble, and typical Khmer outside architecture. Even the visa officials are less intimidating than you would expect. Walking off the plane one expects to be hit in the face with heat and humidity. In my experience, however, it is less a hit in the face than a warm, moist blanket that wraps around you.

On to my lodgings, the Apsara Holiday Hotel, and meeting with friends. A quick trip to market to get mangosteens and rambutan and to pick up a phone to use during the trip. If you are looking for internet access, cafes abound that also provide relatively inexpensive international calling. Siem Reap has a traditional market where you can purchase the requisite souveniers as well a fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, tires, dangerous chemicals, etc.

After dinner with a friend, she invites me to visit Angkor Wat at night. On my last trip I had the opportunity to see this magnificent temple at sunrise. Quite an experience that pictures can't completely do justice to. A few months ago the temple was illuminated for nighttime enjoyment. My feeling about this was quite mixed when I first heard about it, but after visiting, I am definitely a fan. The illumination of the story panels of the third enclosure that surrounds the main temple building really is quite effective at night, showing detail that you might not notice during the day. The panel depicting the Churning of the Ocean of Milk was closed for restoration, so I'm glad I came through the Bangkok airport although it's not quite the same. The other advantage to the nightime visit is the lack of crowds. It appeared that except for security guards, we were the only two people there. A limitation is that only the third enclosure is available to visit, so much like the people who lived here 850 years ago, we were prevented from entering into the heart of the temple. Save that for daylight anyway!

Bangkok's a Suvarnabhumi Airport is slightly over one year old. Where else can you be met in an airport terminal by a life-size depiction of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk? This ancient tale, and it's juxtaposition in a gleaming modern airport, is very basic to the cultures of both Thailand and Cambodia. A look at the history and guide books on the area indicate a co-mingling of Hinduism and Buddhism that provides a kind of window to this area of the world. In addition to the symbolism of the ancient world and the roots of the culture, the airport provides a banquet of shopping. Bulgari, Gucci, and Parisian perfume shops compete with duty free shops and even a BurgerKing to capture the attention of the traveler with a few hours on his or her hands. Last year I had an overnight at the airport, waiting for a 6:00 a.m flight. The public lounges are quite safe and provide somewhat accommodating benches for a little sleep. As I remember, I dozed off to the sounds of traditional music and awoke to the strains of Sinatra and a little 1980's rock! On the Rudasill rating scale, Suvarnabhumi rates #1 for accommodating the tired traveler.

One Night in Bangkok (well maybe two)

After an amazingly easy 24 hour transit to Bangkok, I am on my way to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh tomorrow to do some research into the ways that non-governmental organizations use and collect information. This is the second time I have spent a day in this city and it is a place of fascination for me. I grew up in Chicago, where I learned to drive. Thought the traffic was bad there, but it doesn't hold a candle to Bangkok. If we are worried about gas prices, we should be.

A city of 10 million people, Bangkok is crowded, noisy and gritty, but the individuals you meet here are helpful and considerate. The sign at the airport refers to Thailand as a country of a thousand smiling faces and this is generally true. Like many cities in newly developed countries (I don't think of Thailand as a developing nation) there is always a sharp juxtaposition of glittering sites and less appealing aspects of the urban areas. Actually, not that different from Chicago!